Speed Art Museum – Louisville, KY
Most great art museums make the building itself the first exhibit, and the Speed Art Museum plays that game well. The 2016 North Building stacks two striped metal boxes in midair over the entrance plaza, and the collection inside runs from a 1619 English parlor to pop art. This is Kentucky’s oldest and largest art museum, sitting right against the University of Louisville campus a few minutes south of downtown, and it filled most of our day without ever feeling like a chore.
Bronze Horses Before You Even Get Inside
The lawn greets you with two of Deborah Butterfield‘s bronze horses, Danuta and Burnt Pine. She composes each horse from cast-off branches and reclaimed wood, then casts the whole tangle in bronze, so one horse stands at attention while the other lies in a heap, looking like storm debris that dreams of being a horse. A small sign in the grass asks you to enjoy them without touching. We managed, barely.
The Building Earns Its Keep
Inside, the North Building’s atrium is a triple-height glass box with a black steel staircase floating across it and a branching light sculpture hanging overhead. The glass is speckled with a dot pattern, so the historic houses across Third Street read like a mural that changes with the weather. It’s the kind of room where you take a photo, walk ten feet, and take the same photo again.
The new building connects to the original 1927 building, where the mood shifts to marble columns and a green terrazzo sculpture court. Families should note Art Sparks at the bottom of the grand staircase, an interactive gallery where kids are allowed to touch things, which is a mercy after the horse rule outside.
From a 1619 Parlor to Picasso
The European galleries are stacked with old masters, gilt frames, and period furniture, and they lead to the strangest flex in the building: the Grange parlor, an entire room from a 1619 English country house in Broadhembury, Devon. The carved oak paneling is crowded with figures of myths, virtues, vices, and zodiac signs, the fireplace carries the arms of King James I, and the whole room has been taken apart and rebuilt five times over four centuries, most recently landing at the Speed in 1944. Someone looked at a room and thought, we should ship this across an ocean. Twice, really.
Then the names start landing. There’s a real Monet, The Church at Varengeville, Grey Weather from 1882, hanging quietly in the impressionist gallery like it’s no big deal. A few steps away, Degas’s Little Dancer, Aged Fourteen stands in her glass case in an actual fabric tutu, and a bronze soldier by Gertrude Vanderbilt Whitney, the sculptor who went on to found the Whitney Museum, leans on his crutch nearby.
The modern rooms keep the streak going. Picasso‘s Young Girl in an Armchair (1917) rewards a slow look until the girl and her guitar assemble themselves out of the cubist planes. Lichtenstein‘s Wallpaper with Blue Floor Interior (1992) is an almost life-sized pop art living room printed across five panels, and a Henry Moore bronze reclines in its own marble niche like it owns the place.
Downstairs, the Kentucky galleries hold their own with early furniture and stoneware, and the contemporary rooms brought one of my favorite pieces of the day: Frank Big Bear’s Pendleton Warriors Dancing by Lake Superior (2014), a wall of dancing figures dissolving into rainbow geometry that you can spot from three rooms away.
The Staff Hang Their Own Art
The most charming corner of the museum might be a back corridor holding All Staff: Speed Staff Art Show, an exhibition of work by the museum’s own employees, from guest services to security to finance. The wall text puts it nicely: art isn’t just something they preserve, it’s something they create. A hot pink collage called Velvet Breath by staffer Mason-Gianni Stone stopped me longer than some of the old masters did, and I’m not sorry about it.
Know Before You Go
The museum is open Wednesday through Saturday 10 to 5 and Sunday noon to 5, and Sunday general admission is free. Check the current exhibitions before you go. Parking is the one headache: there’s a garage next door if your vehicle clears its low ceiling, and metered street parking if it doesn’t. Our Sprinter doesn’t clear much of anything, so John got a bonus walking tour of the neighborhood while looking for a spot that fit.
One nice surprise: when we visited, our paid Speed admission also got us into the KMAC Contemporary Art Museum downtown, which turned one museum day into two. And yes, there’s a round @speedartmuseum mirror in the staff show corridor that exists purely to make you take a selfie. John and I complied. The Speed earns a solid chunk of your Louisville day, and if you time it for a free Sunday, it’s one of the best art deals anywhere in the region.